Tuesday 12 March 2024

Trodden Paths of WWII (24-25 February 2024), Day 1 - Tangkak to Segamat via Gemas and Buloh Kasap


On Dec 8 1941, 1 day after the bombing of Pearl Harbour, Japanese troops began their invasion of Malaya. Their first landing was in Kota Bahru and in just 2 months and 8 days, they had completed their conquest of Malaya.


The British and their allies (Commonwealth soldiers) were no match against the Japanese army. In just over 1 month, the Japanese had pressed on to Johor.

The Battle of Gemas as part of the wider Battle of Muar played a significant role in history. It was the first major Australian battle in the Malayan campaign.

In this Battle, the Australian army were assigned to ambush the Japanese soldiers at Gemencheh Bridge which spanned Sungai Kelamah. Their tactic was to blow down the bridge as the Japanese soldiers were crossing it and to rain down artillery on the remaining enemy on the other side of the river.

The operation proved a success but without back up reinforcements, the Australian soldiers had to retreat. Contrary to Wikipedia reports which glorified the ambush with over 1000 Japanese soldiers killed or wounded, the Australian War Memorial has a different story to share. It stated the ambush only slowed down the Japanese Army by an hour and within 6 hours, the bridge was rebuilt with timbers from nearby sawmills. By dawn on 15th January 1942, 36 hours after the ambush, Japanese tanks were seen crossing the bridge and heading towards Gemas.

In order to impede the further advancement of the Japanese soldiers, the Gemas Bridge and the Buloh Kasap Bridge were also destroyed.

Today, what remains of Gemencheh Bridge is just a wooden column retrieved from the river and laid by an obelisk built in memory of the battle and those that perished during the war. As for the Gemas Bridge and the Buloh Kasap Bridge, it remains broken with both ends still visible along the river banks.

Besides destroying road bridges to impede the Japanese army, the Segamat old railway bridge was not spared as well. This was however rebuilt after the war and continued to be of service until the new electrified double tracking line took over.

Below is a photoblog of our journey tracing the paths taken by soldiers during WWII





Battle of Gemas Memorial 

雄面之家 offers very smooth handmade noodles but they can be quite bland to those who are used to tasty meals loaded with seasonings @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/iNA8osBpEAZHrM9i6

The noodle shop is set up in an old Chinese home

All noodles are handmade in this kitchen. The proprietor shares that he has to wake up at 3 am to prepare them

Kampung Baru Bekoh

Kampung Baru Bekoh

"Selamat Jalan", we leave Johor's border...

...and enters Melaka state @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/sfEPzgkLG6HEmtwZ9

Old wooden shophouse at Simpang Bekoh

Route M15's Simpang Bekoh

Route M15's Simpang Bekoh

Strange to find a kampung with an English sounding name 

Gerai Majlis Perbandaran Nyalas (3rd stall from the school) serves very good nasi lemak with sambal sotong and crispy ikan bilis @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/v59HcXybDAjcMdsE8

Nyalas is under the district of Jasin

Captured in the photo is the school and the food court

Nyalas...a small and sleepy town

Getting out of Nyalas town and still on Route M15 @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/LPUogBDELEuKQLWT6

Within minutes, we have left Nyalas and reached the border between Melaka and Negeri Sembilan! 

Gemencheh @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/kLvVVT8F7tQ69Dqq7

Outside the memorial, along Route 1

An obelisk built in memory of the Australian soldiers and the supporting forces who fought at this site from 14-15 January 1942

The 2/30th Battalion were assigned to blow up the Gemencheh Bridge in an effort to impede the advancement of the Japanese soldiers

The wooden column which was once part of the Gemencheh Bridge

Gemencheh Bridge before it was destroyed

Sungai Gemencheh was once known as Sungai Kelamah as it is located near Felda Kelamah. This river was the fierce battleground between the Japanese Imperial Forces and the Australian soldiers. 

An overview of the memorial. The concrete bollards are anti tank blocks. A new bridge is recently opened to traffic on the north side of the memorial while the old bridge on the south side has since been abandoned. 

A new signage

Old signage 

Reading materials

Reading materials

Lunch at Gemas food court was a real hit. Kedai Makan Yon Moi, located next to the bus station @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/V9soaMq1XTfWq5AE9

Wat tan hor

Yellow wine mee suah

After lunch, we proceeded to Muzium Keretapi Gemas

Built in 1922, this railway station was once under siege by the Japanese Imperial Army

Photo from the past depicting Japanese soldiers crouching in anticipation of attacks

A diesel locomotive, most of these are being replaced by electric trains 

This signboard must be at least 100 years old since the station was built in 1922

Komplete Horse Shit 2 on the railway tracks

Inside the locomotive

Not everyday you get to drive a train so better take more photos!

Wooden carriages

Interior

Cargo

Cranes

Sweeping view

Another view

Offices and platform

Tipping the scale, time to diet

Switch levers

Friskie was here in 2019, now Komplete Horse Shit 2 takes the glory

Time to leave for our next port of call

This is how an old railway station looks like

Passing by the new Gemas station

Here we are back into Johor! We were practically interspersed between 3 states; mainly Johor, Melaka and Negeri Sembilan

Gemas' Broken Bridge, photo taken from Google streetview. Unfortunately, we had sped past this bridge, mesmerized by the new railway line!

Google streetview of SK Ladang Fortrose @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/KVUk1MjRiR6CkdxT8

Fort Rose is where the 2/30th Australian Battalion assigned to ambush the Japanese troops at Gemencheh Bridge had escaped to when overwhelmed by fighting and unable to call for reinforcements. Back then, commanding officer, Lt Galleghan had refused the use of radios for security reasons and the phone lines were cut by Japanese scouts

Strangely, the army were on the move! Here is our first encounter with them, right after Gemas and before Batu Anam

What luck! Almost a bullet!!

Here we are, taking refuge by a Muslim cemetery @ https://maps.app.goo.gl/WG2sqFnMWL77c7ng8

Route 1 overlooking the signboard 

This plaque must be new as it wasn't around when we last visited Buloh Kasap in 2021

Buloh Kasap's broken bridge standing next to the replacement bridge

Buloh Kasap Bridge being rebuilt by Japanese troops using timbre from nearby facilities 

Can you spot the hornbill on the bridge?

Here's a close up!

Segamat Old Railway bridge built in 1933

Some inconsistencies here...but after a research, we found out the Segamat old railway station was built in 1909. Supposedly the connecting line across the river only came about in 1933.

43m steel pratt girder bridge built by the British

The old railway bridge ceased operations in 2021 in favour of the new electrified double tracking line

The old line vs the new line

This railway bridge was also destroyed to impede the advancement of the Japanese Imperial Army

Japanese soldiers crossing the river during WWII

We see the army convoy again in Segamat! They were escorted by Military Police with sirens.

You can see the river from this angle. There are many anglers by the river banks

The team taking shelter below the bridge as it was a hot day

Malaysian fast food chain from1978 is still surviving in Segamat. 

After a lengthy tea break at Baker's Cottage which serves surprisingly cheap and good tiramisu and egg tarts, we had dinner at Restoran Long Fong @https://maps.app.goo.gl/wg8nHWFMbqDMqKCQA











A taste of old school cooking which is reasonably priced

We were very lucky as we walked right into a Chingay procession after dinner

There were a lot of freebies for the spectators. Over here, young girls were giving out sweets

"Yow Kai" in Cantonese means taking a walk on the streets. Here, the Gods from Segamat temples are taken out for a walk to give blessings to the people

Pretty lady dressed as Goddess of Mercy giving away sweets and blessing people with holy water

Car stereo company taking part in the procession. A bread shop was sponsoring bread while there were oranges given out to the public as well

Fui Long Teng Temple fully decorated for Chinese New Year

Outside the temple and the festivities

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Segamat Red Orange Hotel











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Throwing oranges in Segamat River

Chap Goh Meh, also known as Chinese Valentine's Day was widely celebrated by the Hokkien community although in modern day, it has become a fun activity adopted by many. The act of throwing oranges in the river is thought to have originated in Penang in the 19th century although some believe it began amongst the Hokkien community in China.

Regardless of its origins, the act of throwing oranges can be traced back to the olden days when young, unmarried girls were not allowed to go out unchaperoned. However, on Chap Goh Meh, these girls will put on their Sunday's best to go to the temples for prayers. After the prayers, they will take a stroll by the river to throw oranges. Young men will wait eagerly by the river banks to catch a glimpse of these girls. 

Click on below link where our friend threw an orange in Segamat River on Chap Goh Meh



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