Thursday 24 February 2022

The Call of the Wild (Dec 27 2021 - Jan 1 2022), Day 3 - Raub to Kuala Lipis

At Lata Jarum with our little friends

After breakfast, we visited "The United Nations of Raub"

"The United Nations of Raub"

Kampung Ulu Gali. In the background is the karst hill and pit lane for tyre change 

Circumventing the karst hill

Sheep farm within a durian orchard on C151. We were so desperate for durians, we stopped to ask.

Gentle, undulating hills on C151 flanked by durian orchards 

Hardly any cars comes by

Drinkstop at Kampung Jelu in Dong

Even the Makcik at Kampung Jelu knows how to appreciate Pyrex's Chelsea caserole dish from the 1970's. Another unknown oblong tableware sits next to it !

Masjid Kampung Jelu

Small stream next to our gerai

Gateway to Kampung Peruas

Dusty road next to Sungai Dong

Sungai Dong

Sungai Dong

Pulau Chekas Riverpools

Slides at Pulau Chekas Riverpools

On our way to Lata Jarum through farmyards... 

...soon we were riding through a forested area...

Tanah Aina is located very near to the entrance to Lata Jarum. You can hear the gushing river from this path

Well kept resort but not opened

Entrance to Lata Jarum

Our little tour guides

Trying out Basikal Lajak, a modified fixie, usually without brakes

Bridge extensions to the waterfalls

The waterfalls viewed from the bridge. According to the boys, there's another one further upstream but this is the best viewing point

Spectacular view

Route C159

Regrouping at C159's first peak. From where we stood, the climb seems to continue on, hence we decided to take a longer break. Unknowingly, the second climb is short and gradual before a nice long descent awaits

Even after the steep descent that went on for 1.5 km, gradual glides on rolling hills continue for more than 5 km !

Stopping traffic !!!

Roundabout junction at Benta

Coconut stop at Taman KSM, right after leaving Route 8 for Route 234 


On Route 234's Jalan Pekeliling, approaching Kampung Pepata. Once, a two lane road is now a single track road due to the recent wet weather which caused the road to collapse. We had to cross a metal truss bridge a little ahead.

Snip taken from google map of the same road before the collapse

Kuala Lipis signage on top of Bukit Kerani. Note the fire station below the hill



Approaching Lipis Plaza Hotel after the roundabout with Lipis District Administration Building on our right and above the hill. Built in 1919, it was once the British Administrative Office of Pahang as Lipis was the biggest district in the state. As the area was rich in gold and rubber, the bottom floor of the building was used for revenue collection and treasury.

Approaching Lipis Plaza Hotel with the Residency Building on top of the highest hill in Kuala Lipis. Built in 1922, it was once the residency of  Sir Hugh Clifford before it was turned into a hostel for Clifford school and subsequently a government rest house.




We said goodbye to Hotel Jelai... 


We said goodbye to the clocktower... 


We said goodbye to Restoran New Tea House and KF Biscuits... 


Most of us were carrying their biscuits from yesterday except for Thomas. He had them for dinner as curry fish head did not agree with him on a hot day. Unfortunately, his taste buds did not agree with the biscuits either! 


Passing by The Esplanade, we said goodbye to the wide green fields... 


...and our bliss were shortlived when KH dropped something at the busy  intersection, right after the town council!!! 


Someone shouted. Everyone jammed their brakes. No harm done and we were on our way again after the cargo was picked up. 


We said hello to Medan Selera Raub, a food court along Federal Route 8. There was a stall offering Yong tau foo, chee cheong fun and curry mee. Nobody raved about the food. 


Lord Murugan stands peacefully...

...together with Kuan Yin on Route 8's Jalan Lipis


Upon Mindy's request, we stopped at "The United Nations of Raub". Right here, along Federal Route 8 stands 3 religious entities. Raub Chinese Methodist Church, Sri Siva Subramaniam Temple and Kuan Yin Temple, all stood side by side, a good testament to religious tolerance and harmony! 


After bidding goodbyes to all Heavenly God's, we suffered Route 8's noise and dust for slightly more than 5 km before turning right to C142.  Directly after the turn, we enjoyed a downhill sprint,  followed by gentle, undulating slopes through villages. The kampung roads here offered little road shoulders but thankfully, traffic were few to come by. 


Route C142 ends in a fork. The right fork takes you to Sungai Ruan, famed for their Musang King durians while the left fork leads you to further obscurity. We took the left fork!!!! 


A durian depot located at the forked junction was busy with activities when we arrived. A truck loaded with baskets of durian were being uploaded and weighed for sale to the middlemen. Claudine quietly walked away when told a basket costs around RM2k !!!!!!! 



Thorny issues or not, Mindy had her first puncture as we were just about to start riding again. When we rolled again, we circumvented the karst hill which had been beckoning since Kampung Ulu Gali. 


Gentle undulating slopes continued on Route C151. Initially,  there were one or two durian orchards spotted along the road but these soon gave way to scattered palm oil estates. 


Soon, our attention were drawn to Lata Jarum's signboards. Hypnotized, it brought us to the junctions of C144 and C159. At C159, we had to make the decision if an 11 km, one way detour is going to be worth it! 


As it was only 9.30 am and Kuala Lipis is slightly more than 40 km away, we decided to make a go for it. After all, arriving too early at our destination will be too boring. 


The next 10 km saw us riding through undulating hills. While we had enjoyed gentle slopes earlier, the hill climbs here were slightly more strenuous. 


Kampung Peruas lies next to the Sungai Dong


Once we crossed the gateway to Kampung Peruas, we entered a different dimension. Streets were brown and dusty. Furnitures were drying in the sun. We saw a colourful myriad of dining chairs, sofas, mattresses and pillows, all out in the open! The school's wired fencing revealed how high the water had come up. When the river receded, it left its rubbish on the wired fencing! 

Some trees uprooted at Pulau Chekas Riverpools

Sand build up at Pulau Chekas Riverpools

Part of Sungai Dong, the waters flows from Lata Jarum


At Pulau Chekas Riverpools, we were disappointed to see the gates were closed. Strangely, it did not fall victim to Covid 19 pandemic but the floods instead. The place was partially destroyed by strong river rapids which flowed from from Lata Jarum. 



3 young boys we met at Pulau Chekas soon became our tour guides to Lata Jarum. They explained to us of a recent landslide, upstream causing the waters to turn a deep orange hue. In fact, lorries carrying building materials were spotted on their way up for repair works. 





Thankfully, the gates to Lata Jarum were opened as some reviews on google had metioned its closure. The hanging bridge across the river was still intact, allowing us a close up view of the gushing waterfalls. 

C 144's Jalan Dong-Ulu Dong

Washed away


Back on the foothills, we thanked our little friends and returned the same way we had come in. Again, we recountered the villager's nightmare. Once more, we stared at the gaping hole in the ground, once a road, now washed away by the river 





Back on Route C159, a new challenge was waiting. The whole climb which peaked at 312 m is about 2.5 km in length. However, one segment with 8.4% gradehill required a struggle from 157 m to 286 m over a distance of 1.5 km. We had to stop midway to catch our breaths. But the descent made up for all our hard labour. Initially steep for 1.5 km, the downhill glide continued with rolling hills for up to 5 km.



At Kampung Budu, we stopped for lunch by a roadside gerai. It was while munching on one of the best nasi kerabu that we found out "Chef Wan" has been riding with us all this while. No wonder our lady chef from Terengganu has been especially nice to Thomas since our arrival! 


We reached Benta close to 1.30 pm. Here on, we rejoined Route 8 and again had to suffer the noise from the traffic. 

Wesly, stated as a bar but served decent Eastern and Western food


We reached Lipis Plaza Hotel slightly after 3 pm. In the evening, after all the laundry has been done, we met again for a heritage walk followed by dinner. 



At 9.30 pm, while the team were getting ready to call it a night, a gunshot sound reverberated in room 2-117 !!! An SOS call was immediately sent out to the groupchat. Mindy's tube had burst into 2 while she was trying to inflate it !!!


Photo credits :

Mindy

Kelvin

Chooi

Henry

Thomas


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Kuala Lipis Walkabout


Riverside promenade

Thean Hou Temple 1898

Houseboats used to be moored by the Jelai River but you only see sampan nowadays!

Medan Tangga is a multi leveled staircase flanked by shops and food stalls, almost similar to the atmosphere in Hong Kong. These stairs cuts through the linked shop lots on Jalan Jelai and ends on the upper street of Jalan Besar

We entered Medan Tangga via Jalan Jelai and exited via Jalan Besar

Hotel Central, 1921. Fancy that the Visit Malaysia Year 1990 poster is till hung on the wall. In 1921, this hotel could have been a grand place, considering its location by the business district and railway station. Note the elaborate stucco motifs.

Mural of diesel train

Railway Station, 1926. This building is no longer in use.

Post Office, 1910. After extensive renovations, only some of its old facade remains, Note the casement windows on the upper floor

Original post boxes with metal doors still stood the test of time. The post office used to house the telegraph service under The Post and Telegraphs Department. Later the telegraph services were handed over to Telekom Malaysia with its final curtain call on 1 July 2012. This ended the era of sending short text messages quickly via telegrams when phone lines were few to come by

Prewar shophouses, some from 1928

Railway lines

Jalan Pekeliling with Lipis State Mosque in the distance. It is called the State Mosque as Kuala Lipis was once the state capital of Pahang before it was moved to Kuantan. The mosque was built in 1888 by an Arab Yemen trader and used to sport a wooden roof.

Istana Hinggap, 1926. 

Originally built for British officers, it was turned into Chief Minister's residence in 1948 before taken over as a royal residence in 1951

0 km landmark, marks the center of Kuala Lipis and possibly the center of Peninsula Malaysia

Jubli Hall for functions, banquets and weddings

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Basikal Lajak / Nyamuk