Amoi rides in the kampungs: East Coast Ride (19-31 March 2018), Day 6 : Kuala Dungun to Kuala Terengganu

At Kampung Baharu, "shady shacks" are aplenty

Leaving Kuala Dungun

Kampung Baharu

You don't need Happy PILLS at Kampung Baharu

Eating corn on someone's verandah!

Lunch at Kedai Makan Uztaz

Pantai Kelulut

Detour from the main road at every opportunity

Marang River and GE14 fever

Kuala Terengganu's Chinatown

Sightseeing

Tea break

Waiting for Claudine to take a potty break

...and she's back!

Murals galore

River view behind hotel

Old canal

Masjid Abidin

Dinner

This morning, the chatroom was abuzz from as early as 5.30 am. Philip and York Fuan had arrived by bus earlier than expected!

Jenny who was first to respond, offered her room to York Fuan. But by then, the duo had dropped in at Saujana Hotel’s lobby, wrinkled their nose in distaste and left for McDonald’s instead.

I wouldn't wake up for this!

Ms Sunshine

As the rest took turns to join in the chat either actively or passively, we were soon spammed by photos of the duo on the beach. Sunrise in the East Coast is well worth the sleep sacrifice if you are guaranteed a clear sky. Otherwise, it is better to wait for insomnia to strike which is best, judging from their lackluster photos!

At the Roti Canai stall, 50m away from Hotel Saujana

Thanks to hotel reviews which also touched on food, we found the roti canai stall, right next to the Caltex station to be as good as mentioned. In fact, it was touted as the best in Kuala Dungun!

Leaving Kuala Dungun, we decided to take Route 3 in order to bypass Dungun town center. Traversing past the Dungun River, our speed began to pick up. Led by KC, we were racing past the exit to Tanjung Jara beach, much to the frustration of Claudine. Nobody caught wind of her shouts as KC sped ahead, tailed by Jenny and Philip.

Continuing on with the race, we were whizzing past an inlet that saw a creek separating marshlands from the sea. Peering through the shrubs, little wooden bridges were spotted connecting the 2 bodies of land.

Our so called race only screeched to a stop at Rantau Abang. Making our way into Petronas service station, everyone were filling up on drinks except Philip who chose sticks of honey which came in peculiar straw like packaging.

As the Turtle Conservation and Information Center was right opposite the road, we took a peek but came out disappointed by its lack of attractions. There were no life exhibits inside but only posters and dioramas. Outside, the few pools in the compound held life terrapins and tortoises but none on marine turtles.

At the adjacent lot, batik painting was on display. A batik producer cum souvenir shop, we could only admire the art and products but procured none as we were clearly lacking in baggage allowance!!!

Hitting the road once more, the perpetual straight road with views of yet another set of inlet, coupled with marshland and glimpses of the sea was beginning to bore. Hoping for a reprieve, we took a “Chance” card, turning into Kampung Baharu instead.

It was the right move!

We were immediately treated to a majestic view of the South China Sea and quaint kampung houses. Delightfully rustic; chickens, goats and cows roamed free under the canopies of coconut fronds whilst fishing boats were grounded like beached whales on land! Speaking to a man tending to his boat, he pointed out the sea was too rough for fishing which explains the number of boats we saw along the shoreline.

The laidback lifestyle of the village folks rubbed a little into us as we transcended down the coastline. Almost every home was built with a verandah to chill. Little shacks by the beach, some hung with hammocks, made perfect getaways to relax and discharge! We felt totally disconnected and in sync with nature...Our speed dropped, our moods lifted, we felt happy even without PILLS!

Reluctantly, we had to leave the village and return to the main road. Even though there could have been another alternative road beyond a man made pond, the gravel trail which lay after the proper tarmac was a deterrent for many. Everyone had voted out Claudine and as Philip had requested a visit to a stingless bee sanctuary not far away, we all trooped back to Route 3.

Back on the main artery, everyone raced ahead, whizzing past the Honey Gallery. VT was first to give caution to the rest. He shouted after Claudine. Instead, she shouted after Philip. He tried shouting as well but everyone had gone in seconds!!!

Not willing to forgo another sightseeing opportunity, Claudine decided to stop altogether. Continuing on will see everyone chasing each other for at least another 10 km or so!

Texting the rest on her decision to make a stopover, Philip managed to get hold of the rider ahead who then went on to inform the rest. That was when everyone returned meekly, wagging their tails behind them!

The honey gallery was an eye opener. Built with a prospective garden cafe, it comes with an information center, a product display and a souvenir corner. Out in the back, we were given a hands on learning experience on the ecology of kelulut or stingless bee.

Not far from the Honey Gallery, stalls selling corn decked the road

It seems today is an auspicious day for weddings as we rode past a nuptial in Kampung Pasir Putih and two more in Kampung Kuala Tengah. All with colour themes, we saw the bride and groom’s families dressed in their chosen colours. Even the curtains on the canvas canopies were tied with the same coloured ribbons.

Knowing all Malay weddings come with kenduris, greed got the better of us. Even the steamed corn we had had earlier could not stay our appetites. On the lookout for food, we soon found Kedai Makan Uztaz, a huge restaurant serving authentic malay cuisines. They had almost everything; from rendang to gulai and from grilled fish to ulam!

While they provide prayer rooms for the Muslims, they also adopted the local custom of removing one’s shoes before entering the toilets! Rubber slippers were provided to those who prefer to protect their feet from human discharge!

Our next stop was Pantai Kelulut, located a few hundred meters off the trunk road. Serviced by rows of food stalls, we made a break at the first corner stall that offered coconuts. Sitting by the side of the stall with a view of Pulau Kapas while enjoying the sea breeze, we had to train our eyes beyond the eyesores. Right behind, the service road and shrubs were strewn with rubbish while effluents from the stalls were discharged into the sea!

The ride began to pick up 19 km to Kuala Terengganu. Crossing the wide Marang River, the Fishery Department and Ferry Terminal for Pulau Kapas and Gem Island were interesting sights beside the spectacular breakwater.

At Kampung Chendering, the opulent white mosque, named after Sultan Ismail saw busloads of tourists on a visit! On a busy road and traveling on the opposite side, all hopes of catching a good snapshot of the mosque were dashed.

Thereafter, we began climbing up the bridge that traversed Sungai Ibai. As one side of the river bank was turned into a recreational park, beautiful casuarina trees dotted the landscape.

The other side of the river bank was grander! Made out of a river delta surrounded by waterways, Tengku Tengah Zaharah Mosque, floats grandly in the waters. Closer to the sea, the Equestrian Park and Regency Waterfront Hotel lent the greens to the area.

Soon we were rolling past the palace walls of istana Nur Nadhirah. We couldn't see much beyond the grilled fences and were soon on our way again.

When we finally came to the roundabout, we transcended into the old quarters of Kuala Terengganu.

Right before us was amongst the oldest mosques in Terengganu. Originally built in wood, Masjid Abidin opened its doors in 1808. Admiring the architecture, it was interesting to note its sublime Chinese influences. Its pagoda like minaret was not surprising as Kuala Terengganu’s Chinatown lies just a stone’s throw away; by the river front!

At KT Chinatown hotel, the Peranakan influences were distinct. While the family hotel was a lovely stay to many of us, Jenny had a brief argument with the father who did not allow bikes to be parked in the room. Philip too was giving the son a hard time, refusing to move his bike out to the corridor while lamenting over his room rates and lack of “windows”.

Not exactly a non bike friendly hotel, it tried to meet us halfway by allowing bikes at the corridor. As it is, we had to carry our bikes one level up as their lobby is located on the first floor with no lift facilities. Security for the bikes comes in the form of CCTV and an access card after midnight.

After washing up, we met again to scour the old quarters. Starting with Chinatown, we worked our way to the river promenade before returning to Masjid Abidin for a closer look. Of course, there was the tea break and dinner worked into the sightseeing tour as well!

Photo Courtesy :
1. KC
2. Philip

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Double decker bus from Johor Bahru to Kuala Dungun