At the informal truck stop by the beach |
With Lee at Hotel Vogue, Kuala Rompin. Lee is also a cyclist! |
Arriving at our breakfast stop this morning, a Honda CRV cruised past us at low speed with its window down. Smiling to us shyly from the driver seat was non other than Lee, Isaac’s brother and co-owner of Hotel Vogue. It was so heartwarming to know he had secretly tailed after us, making sure we find the recommended breakfast stop!
Without a signboard and tucked away in an enclave with only Tunas Manja Supermarket as a landmark, this food haven is indeed a local secret, passed on by word of mouth.
Auntie with her stylish hairstyle serves fantastic prawn noodle, curry mee and yong tau foo, paying a justified tribute to a town famous for fishing. Everything had tasted so fresh!
The ride out of town on coastal route 3 was a mundane one. Settlements were sparse and vegetations were low lying. There were little protection from the sun and the wind.
Spinning along the bare countryside, Claudine soon spotted basic shelters to her left. Comprising 4 poles and a simple zinc roof, she was surprised they were built to protect new graves from the elements!
The hot morning took a sudden turn when cloud covers began to blow in. We were thrilled with the sudden coolness it offered. Shrouded in semi darkness, we were eerily going through a small forest with bee infested trees. Hives were spotted on many trees!
Closing in on the junction to Muadzam, a line of food shops decked the road. A popular stop amongst lorry drivers, it also taps on visitors to Menchali Recreational Forest.
As the weather was still cloudy, we did not stop for long to enjoy the well managed forest which fringed the coastal road. Instead, we pushed on for Pekan with KC, still holding on to a lighted cigarette!!!
Soon, we began rolling past stalls after stalls selling wooden chopping boards. Once in a while, more refined woodwork of ladle, bowls and toys were spotted.
Sometimes, a whole family can be seen, sprawled over wooden sheds with mengkuang leaves for roof. Looking hopelessly bored most of the time, these Orang Asli from Kampung Orang Asli Sembayan were trading in sea coconut and mussels.
Tea and traditional kuih at Mercung. Strangely, there was a short power failure in the area. Power returned as we were preparing to leave! |
As we approached the river estuary of Sungai Mercung, the inlet provided the sea water necessary for fish farming. Passing by the man made ponds, we saw many paddle wheel aerator at work; churning water to allow the transfer of oxygen through air-water contact.
In an open area like this, we were subjected to the full fledged sun. Gone were the rain clouds, blown away by the strong wind.
It was also along this route that we came upon truck cabins together with chassis and wheels stored in an opened fenced up area. All brand new, we wondered where they will be heading to!
Classic way of selling groundnuts |
We were left dry for a long time, but soon spotted our first refuge. The old Caltex petrol station in Nenasi, hailing from the heydays, was in dire need for upgrading.
Turning in, Claudine’s disappointment soon turned to relief when she found out cold drinks were sold from a refrigerator in their non-air conditioned office! A deja-vu feeling swept over her as she recalled making the same stop with her family in 2015.
Making our way out of the old petrol station, one man on a scrambler was speeding on counter traffic towards us. Coming to a screech, Pak Yus introduced himself as the owner of Kekunang Tering Chalet.
Even though we had confessed to our pre bookings at Pekan, we still received invitations to view the place. Delighted, we had a go at it as it helps to kill boredom and the road ahead was pretty much a dreary one!
Tree house |
Campsite with hammocks |
Toilet with open skylight |
Open shower area |
The chalets at Kekunang Tering are built amongst nature with minimal environmental damage. Shrouded in trees, the whole area is cool even at midday, making it possible to sit by the beach on a hot sunny afternoon. Offering alternative accommodations such as tube capsules and a tree house, a campsite with proper shower facilities is also made available to those who prefer a closer contact with nature. Another family chalet with ensuite bathroom was going through it’s final touches of construction when we were there.
After bidding farewell to the caretaker of Kekunang Tering, we collected Jenny from the road junction and continued our journey to Pekan. She had decided to stay on high ground after yesterday’s play on the beach which had weighed her shoe down with fine sand!
On the move once more, the midday sun was getting unbearable. Unmotivated, Claudine soon gave up her chase on KC and Jenny. Riding alone with no signs of VT and Mr Lim, every shade across the road was like a temptress, luring her to take refuge.
Finally buckling to temptations, she crossed the road to take cover from the sun. Under the cool shades of trees, she munched her dates as waited for the rest.
A few kilometers down the road, KC and Jenny were also taking a break. An informal truck stop by a beachfront, the casuarina trees in the area offered the much needed shade. Sadly littered with rubbish it was disheartening to note the nonchalant attitudes of the traders and truckers alike!
Regrouped at the truck stop, we continued our pursue for Pekan. Faced with hot sun and strong headwinds, the ladies were drafting behind VT. This time, KC took a backseat preferring to sweep Mr Lim.
An hour later, we made a break at the first fruit stall we saw along the road. An agrobazaar selling local produce, we hydrated on fresh pineapples and guava.
The last 20 km was a daze. We knew we had to fight on and so we did! Getting to the finish line in a string of clouds, Claudine could hardly remember anything. But it was a day of many river crossings and when the road finally runs parallel with the majestic Pahang River, familiar landmarks began popping up.
Eager to return to her family’s favourite restaurant in Pekan, Claudine led the team to My Mama Nasi Kukus. A fast food chain that originally sells fried chicken in spices, they have ventured further to rendangs and curries.
Coincidentally, the owner and his wife were on their rounds, visiting their chain of outlets when we were there. Taken to us, we started a conversation which led to some photo takings. Unfortunately, while we graced their albums and likewise, we were never offered any freebies! Not even a cold glass of water!!!!
After lunch, we did a little bit of sightseeing around town. Covering the river promenade, the muzium and the old mosque, a better sight awaits us at the bottleneck along Jalan Sultan Ahmad. Scores of Le Tour de Langkawi 2018 team and crew members, enroute to Bentong were caught in Pekan’s famous traffic jam. At a standstill sometimes, it was easy for us, fans, to meet and greet them.
When we were done feasting on the eye candies, we headed for our hotel. Located 8 km away from town and on the other side of the river bank, we got there in no time, spurred on by more and more sightings of the international bike race community.
Meanwhile, another eye candy had approached Claudine at the hotel lobby. A cyclist himself but non pro, Tom Cheng was one of Claudine’s earliest riding buddies. Like most family man, responsibilities has taken over hobby and he is now rarely seen in the riding community.
That night, we had a simple dinner of fried rice, tomyam soup and the likes at a food court in front of Hotel Bajet Warisan. A Wednesday night market across the street was drawing in the crowds. Next to it was a local hypermarket. But it was McDonald’s that we honoured, delighting ourselves to their sundaes before calling it a night.
Photo Credit :
KC
Photo Credit :
KC
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