East Coast Ride (19-31 March 2018), Day 9 : Pulau Perhentian

In 3 shots...Dab to the right!

Dab to the left???

...now candid!!!

At our first stop

Climb over

Go under!

Do limbo rock!

It's a jungle out there

Running water

Hop

Wait...need to capture this on camera!

Walk the plank

First trail done, Hurray!!!

The start of second trail

"Hands on"

"Bumper to bumper"

"Help, I am stuck!"

...."so am I !!!"

Ecstasy when we finished the second trail!

Beautiful waters

In 3 shots....ONE...

...TWO...

...THREE!!!

Third Trail...hold on tight

Where's the rest of the bridge

Rocky

Waist deep

...and we're back!

There are several hiking trails in Pulau Perhentian Besar. As we were not too sure on our physical abilities and the difficulty ratings given by our friendly receptionist, we decided on an intermediate trail which took us across the south west tip of the island. Thereon, we were offered the options to either hail a boat taxi or embark on another set of trail to get back.

Beginning from our resort after sorting out our own breakfasts, we followed yesterday’s route to the beach. Past Coral View Resort, up the concrete stairs, past the massage center and back down, the red marker leading to the trail was not easy to spot. After a few stumbles and enquiries, we finally began our ascend.

Initially gradual, we soon started on steep inclines. The fitter ones like KC, was ahead while Jenny had soon passed her little bag to Mr Lim for safekeeping. As we ascent higher and higher, she became closer and closer to God, calling out HIS name in repeated intervals of “Oh my God!”

Meanwhile, once an avid hiker, Claudine knew to take small steps to avoid strain. She had also stopped her chatter to control her heart rate and breathing. But a noise behind her was breaking her concentration. Almost like a vocal person about to reach an orgasm, Philip was expressing himself earnestly! His breathing was coming in guttural rasps!!!

Did we think it was over?

Where the route flattened out, we made our first stop. Smirking and thinking it was the end of the climb, it was not! There was more to come!! But what came first before anything else were the blood thirsty mosquitoes!!! They managed to sink their proboscis into our skin despite the gushing streams of sweat flowing to the ground!

Fleeing the mosquitoes, we practically dashed through the trail. But our hopes of finishing the hike was dashed when we saw another set of inclines. This time it was tougher than before, requiring some hand support.

When the descend came, we had to climb over fallen trees and sometimes do a limbo rock! Later, the trail turned wet with water pipes and a spring running alongside it.

On flats again, the trail suddenly disappeared...washed away by the pools of water! To the unfamiliar eye, there were two possible routes but all the ex scouts insisted on the right fork which led us out to a clearing with long grass. Beyond was the beach and some chalets!

Yippee??? NOT!!!!

"Don't go into the long grass" The Lost World, Jurassic Park

We still have to make our way through the waist long grass and the only possible passage was to follow the flow of the water! Everyone tried to side step the water initially. Stepping on the narrow banks with legs wide apart, those with height challenges soon found their legs stretched apart like a gymnast about to make a split!

Then, Claudine felt her legs slide in the mud. Wider and wider, her legs went in separate directions. As she tried to bring them back together, she lost her balance and gave way to gravity, suffering a small graze to her knee!

Back to civilization, our thrills were short lived when we made our way through the backyard of a resort, the stagnant stream behind it was black and stank of refuse! The beach out front was not too pleasing to the eye either!

Still early, we decided to embark on the next trail. No one listened to Jenny’s pleas to hail a boat taxi though we all offered to negotiate the price for her. Unfortunately, she was too intimidated to be on her own and sucked up to the following challenges!

Walking on the beach to the end of the strip, we turned into the next trail which runs past a diving school. We knew we were in for a tough ride when the makeshift signboard at the trail head read “ENJOY”! Such sarcasm coupled by earlier ratings from our receptionist harboured foreboding thoughts in us.

Did we heed the thoughts??? NO!!!!

We went head on into it and were immediately arrested by an almost vertical climb. With backsides coming up close to faces, our hands started groping...not indecently BUT to keep one’s balance! Even photo snapping came to an abrupt stop!!!

Thankfully, even though the trail is a lot tougher and steeper than the earlier one, we soon found ourselves emerging out to another strip of beach. The pristine settings was too good to resist. Quickly, we jumped into the waters.

Unknowingly, there are some codes as to where we could actually swim! Certain strips as at The Barat’s, dead corals filled the waters making it an unsafe swimming ground. Likewise, boat routes are dangerous zones and boats anchored near the shores are good indications of red flag areas.

We soon learnt this as we were asked to move further and further away from where a few boats were anchored. Not necessarily a bad thing as we soon came near to a group of diving students and discovered some beautiful marine life so close to shore!

When we had had enough of the sun, sea and fishes, we went on our third league. This took us past a few resorts, notably Tuna Bay, a family owned resort with 3 other property arms in Johor. It’s owner, Gan Hong Lee has visions to expand his hotel flagship to other states as well.

Following the concrete bridge that hugged the cliffs we soon came to a dead end. The rest of it had collapsed, battered by the waves.

We were left with a choice of climbing over boulders or wading in thigh high water. We tried both! None of it was easy and our journey was long! Whenever a boat passes through, we were rocked by big waves.

At one point, the waters became waist deep for the vertically challenged. To escape the waters, we decided to squeeze our way through a gap between 2 giant boulders.

Claudine had just passed through the gap when she heard a splash. Turning around, Philip lay face down in the waters. Thankfully, he was still conscious and managed to raise his head.

His next words made her blood curdled. “My leg is stuck,” he exclaimed. Grimacing in pain, he started to growl when others tried to help him up. “Nooooo!!! Leave me alone!” he went.

When Philip finally managed to ease himself back up, he was not in a happy mood. He was bleeding on the shin. Thank goodness this is not shark infested waters or he would have made shark bait!

There was still some distance to go. Even when we spotted “The End”, it was slow to come by.

Back on land, it was as if we’ve had had enough of each other! Bernie and Suzie sat down for lunch at the first restaurant they spotted. They must be ravenous after an intensive one and half hour workout. KC, Mr Lim, VT and Claudine tried the Thai food. It wasn’t good and wasn’t bad but pricey. Unsatisfied, VT and Claudine adjourned to Barat’s own kitchen to join Philip and York Fuan who had just returned from her dive. Meanwhile, Jenny preferred to wash up and reminisce over lunch by the beach!

That afternoon, while the rest of the team continued their decaying lifestyles of food, beer and naps, Bernie and Suzie hit the beach once again. Bernie was even captured on photo, swimming all the way to the pontoon in the middle of the sea! This naturally explains his huge appetite over dinner when we all met again at the cosy, open air dining area of Barat’s!

Photo courtesy :
1. Suzie
2. Philip
3. KC

_____________________________________________________________________________

Activities on the Island

1. Diving package : RM400 for 3 dives

2.Hiking Trail : FREE!!!!!

• Walk from The Barat to Perhentian Island Resort
• Start first trail, end up B First Chalet
• Walk towards Flora Bay Resort and begin second trail
• Emerge on Teluk KK, walk towards Tuna Bay and Cozy
• Use rickety bridge till it ends in the sea, track on water to get back!

East Coast Ride (19-31 March 2018), Day 7 : Kuala Terengganu to Kuala Besut

Bot Penambang Seberang Takir

KT's river promenade

Happy to be onboard

Happy to be onboard

Untying the ropes

Low tide means more steps to climb to the jetty

Leaving the jetty

A short detour...

...to check out the breakwater

Weaving our way through Kampung Seberang Takir

Jalan Ketapang Pantai : Note the mounds of sand for roadworks

Cows grazing

Ouch!

Watermelon stops just before Pantai Penarik

Pantai Penarik

Pantai Penarik

One happy shot before they leave Mr Lim and Claudine behind!!!

Waking up in Chinatown, in the capital city of Terengganu, we felt totally at home with the food choices on the street. No doubt roti canai and nasi lemak are delicious staples but sometimes the Chinese in us pine for a taste that is deeply rooted in us. Settling down for Hakka noodles and the sorts, we bumped into “Auntie” from last night’s restaurant. 

Turns out Auntie in white is Captain of Restaurant Golden Dragon while the lady in green is the lady boss

Right behind Chinatown, at the waterfront, we found our jetty for Bot Penambang Seberang Takir. Our 10 minutes boat ride saved us at least 5 km of leg work, riding across the river delta, not to mention the traffic woes along Jalan Tengku Mizan. A traditional mode of transport, it is fast losing its significance to the many bridges built across the river; the latest being the draw bridge, located at the river mouth and due for completion this year. 

The draw bridge at the river mouth

Once on land again, we weaved our way through Kampung Seberang Takir, then made our way to the coastal road of Jalan Ketapang Pantai. At the moment, still a narrow kampung road with views of the South China Sea; running parallel and closer to the sea were massive roadworks! When ready, this new road will lead to the draw bridge, connecting both sides of the riverbank. 

Caught on camera!

Meanwhile, our little sister on a Brompton had been grinning from ear to ear since the boat ride. Setting foot on firm ground once again, she was sometimes seen standing on her pedals gleefully and peering into other people’s houses!

We weren’t making any turns then, and there were absolutely no cars on the road! Probably hypnotized by the views of sand and sea, coupled by the steam rollers on the move, she crashed!

Just a few cuts on her hand, arm and wrists, they were shrugged off as light injury but started dripping blood a short distance after the ride resumed. As first aids were brought out for the second time, Mr Lim whisked out his magic potion instead. The yellow solution got her writhing in pain but with the sting, Mr Lim promised quick healing.

Moving on, we continued to follow the coast, this time, circling the airfields that makes up Sultan Mahmud airport. A small domestic airport, we caught no landing or take off activities at the time we were passing through.

Thereafter, all peace and tranquility were shattered by the throng of buses plying the road along University Malaysia Terengganu. Evading traffic, we took the right fork, returning to the coastal road to enjoy a more relaxing pace before stopping at Kedai Makan Sukaramai.

A big stopover banking on various types of Lekor, they also offered different types of cendol which can cost as much as RM5-6! Philip’s durian cendol was topped with a whole seed while some had jack fruits, corn and the sorts!

Close to 12 pm, we pulled up at Pantai Penarik. Planning for a brief water stop, we ended up taking a longer than expected stopover when swings were spotted around the area. First to run towards them was York Fuan followed by Jenny and KC. But there was no need to fight over them as these swings were scattered all along the beachfront!

As it was coming to lunchtime and VT have a nose for food, the helm was passed on to him. Regrettably, it wasn’t a good idea! Too eager for lunch, he led the group on a high speed chase, turning right to Route 3684 without stopping or leaving a marker. Riding behind the group, Claudine and Mr Lim missed the turn and ended up all the way in the town of Permaisuri!!!

   

Where the rest had gone!

                                                                                                                                                                     

What a betrayal!!! Especially so, when they had stopped midway to check on the phone twice to see if anyone had contacted them. When no texts came, they had trod ahead, wondering all the time where the rest of the crew were!

Arriving at the T junction for Route 3, their heart dropped when they spotted no one at KFC nor the major food court by the roadside. It was a horrible knowledge, made worse by the lovely smell of ayam goreng berempah which was a great contender for  KFC’s hot and spicy. Both smell teased and tantalized their senses, peaking to optimum levels when text messages finally streamed in…..they were OUT!!! 

As both of them were confirmed separated from the team, Claudine initially suggested lunch before meeting the rest of the team. However they were denied this luxury but made to push for regrouping instead. 

Traffic on Route 3 at that time was noisy. The sun at midday was glaring. The idea that they were screwed did not help....Claudine could not think straight. 

The route suggested by google maps...

The route Claudine decided to take!!!

As google maps offered 3 possible routes to the team’s location, it was only natural to choose the shortest distance. Unwittingly, they chose the route that ran through paddy fields and swamps. Lands were being cleared turning the area into a muddy muck. 

While a narrow canal with clear running water runs parallel to the road, it did little to cool down the fumes that was building up in her. Claudine was MAD! 

Bumpy trail with canal on the right

Very soon, she found herself madly reciting prayers as well! The path they trod on were laden with potholes so huge, they sometimes encompassed the whole width of the road. They had no choice but to roll over the craters!

Bumping into a motorcyclist just a few hundred meters into their ordeal, the Pak Cik forewarned the trail was long. He suggested for them to turnaround but Mr Lim was adamant to go through with their chosen path as they had committed too much, riding in all the way from the main road. Alternatively, Pak Cik suggested turning right somewhere ahead but the right turn appeared to be a muddy mess much worse in appearance than the one they were already traveling on!

Later, almost at wits end, Claudine had hailed a single pick up truck that was passing through. Pretending to make enquiries, she was actually hoping to get a lift. Thankfully, true to the driver’s words, civil road was just a few hundred meters away! Hurrah!!!

In actual fact, it took them an hour to reconnect with the rest of the team. Out of the 12 km distance, their off-road ordeal lasted a whole 4 km! 

Arriving at Kampung Saujana, Claudine’s iced milk tea had been standing in wait for sometime. The ice had totally melted, depicting a lapsed passage of time. 

Fueled by a need to validate her feelings, Claudine began dumping fully loaded lectures on VT. Embarrassed, the rest of the group smiled meekly. While some tried to make light of the situation, York Fuan, was spotted hiding behind a book either avoiding a confrontation or lost in her own world! 

Too worked up to eat, Mr Lim and Claudine only had drinks and short bread biscuits before pushing off with the group. Their respite came about 3.5 km later, when Claudine spotted a roadside stall selling freshly fried banana fritters and lekor; a perfect timing for tea! 

After that, the rest of the way to Kuala Besut was insignificant. However, as we were closing in on Iz Budget 2, our stay for the night, a small traffic jam piqued everyone’s attention. Right in the middle of the road, meters away from Ibnu Abbas Mosque was an old macaque with collar and chains. It was either confused or suicidal refusing to budge from the road despite the heavy traffic.

Arriving at Iz Budget2, we were pleasantly pleased with their chalets that opens up to a big, fenced up garden. Tucked away from the main road, in the middle of a village, it was the perfect getaway but not too perfect for our party of 7! With only 3 rooms, Philip was the odd one out without a place to crash!

Not wishing hardship upon our teammate, we checked out their sister accommodations, located about 1 km away. The room concepts were the same albeit slightly smaller and noisier as it faces the main road, but we made the change all the same!

That night, upon Wati’s recommendations, we took the short walk to Chef for dinner. Arriving at the venue, we were taken aback to find it in pitch darkness! Having no choice, we walked further down the road to a stretch of food court facing the Ibnu Abbas Mosque. Many outlets were closed and the few that was opened claimed they were not serving as there was a water supply disruption.

Choosing the best out of 2 kitchens that was busy, we had a simple and bearable dinner. As if this was not enough, we ordered two additional burgers from the street vendor to share which may have attracted the old macaque. The poor animal came over, looking stressed and lost before it was quickly chased to the mosque by other customers!

That night, we took the long walk back to our chalet, stopping by a convenience shop just for the sake of air conditioning and to while away the time. We were all in a good mood for there was no more riding for the next 2 days. When tomorrow comes, we will be hitting the beach of Pulau Perhentian!!!