Sunday 21 November 2021

4,3,2,1...Up Up and Away (October 23 - 30, 2021), Day 2 : Kulim to Merbok

Mengkuang Dam

Thanks Suzie for this beautiful mother and daughter photo

Jalan Sungai Lembu 

The long walk up to the dam

Ladies only 

Mengkuang Dam

Such a beautiful route...

...which follows the river...

...car free...

...ETS train passing in a myriad of colours...

...one wonders why doesn't our Tourism ministry promotes this as a cycle path?

This watergate is a regular passage for the kampung folks to get around


Spectacular

Imagine the flow of the water during raining seasons

Fishing by the river 

Riding through paddy fields

Children swimming in a muddy canal

Kompleks Bisikan Ikan, by the riverbanks of Sungai Muda. Opposite is Pasar Bisikan Ikan, both located at the river mouth.

On coastal road which runs parallel to K642

Glimpses of quaint kampung life from the coastal route

At the top of the steep slope, enroute to Pulau Sayak

Penang Island floats in the sea, as seen from Pulau Sayak's high vantage point

Times are so bad super heroes have to resort to selling iced tea at Pantai Merdeka 

Old signboard

Boat from Pantai Merdeka to Tanjung Dawai

Crammed but excited

Tanjung Dawai

Frolicking in the stream just outside Damai Park Resort

Frolicking in the stream just outside Damai Park Resort

Frolicking in the stream just outside Damai Park Resort

Frolicking in the stream just outside Damai Park Resort

Frolicking in the stream just outside Damai Park Resort

Frolicking in the stream just outside Damai Park Resort





This morning, Amy and VT were one of the firsts to be out of their rooms. Both were given the assignments to check on their tyres which unfortunately ran flat only 9 km to Kulim, yesterday.



Thankfully, the tubes were still holding well and only required further inflation. This was a difficult task by hand pumps which required an estimated 30 pumps to achieve a mere 10 psi !!!





Chai Tau Kueh was good


Breakfast was sorted out at the local market of Taman Lembah Impiana before our ride actually began. Then, we bid Kulim farewell and within a short 2 km of pedal pushing had crossed borders into Penang!





P129's Jalan Sungai Lembu was simply divine. The route cuts through the hill slopes within a green forested area.

When we got out of the jungle, high fencing greeted us. These were the perimeter fencing of Mengkuang Dam.

The police officers and RELA personnel on duties directed us to leave our bikes by their tent in the carpark area, handed us each a visitor card which limits the number of pax allowed in the Dam area at any one time before waving us off. They were quite impressed with our group especially Mr Lim who did a century ride yesterday at 73 years of age!

Penang's high rise in the background

Bukit Berapit's Chinese Cemetery in the background

Mengkuang Dam

The dam was spectacular and from a high vantage point, we could spot Penang Island. Nearer to the dam was Bukit Berapit's Chinese Cemetery.

May and LC arrived just as we were about to leave. Taking the opportunity, we refilled our water bottles before continuing on with our ride.









The next 40 km was idyllic! We were mostly riding on gravel paths right next to paddy fields. Whenever we ran out of paths, we rejoin the trunk road which is low in traffic, turning back to gravel paths whenever possible.





At one point, our ride took us alongside Sungai Kulim. We briefly chatted with a family tending to their vegetable and flowering garden by the river. In return, they proudly showed us their catch of river fish ! Bidding them farewell, we had the good opportune to see the ETS passing through in a myriad of colours.










At one point we had to cross Sungai Kulim to the other side. This could only be done at the watergates which is actually a regular route taken by the kampung folks ! This explains why the entrance to the watergates were not locked.

Entering second segment...

...entering yet another set of gravel...

...here we go!

After the U-turn

On the right track!

Last playground before rejoining the road

Freaked out over yesterday's route which was inundated by flood waters, Meng was beginning to worry when we missed a turn at this gravel path. He proactively pointed out to the traffic which was visible far ahead between the trees. We did come out to real tarmac after all but not before seeing 4 boys having a good time in a muddy canal.

Finally on proper roads flanked by paddy fields, we had a quick drink stop at Pajak Song before moving on to Penaga to grab our lunch.

Sungai Muda

On K670 enroute to Dataran Tsunami

Gorgeous green paddy fields

Idyllic 

Kompleks Bisikan Ikan

The food court next to the market

Dataran Tsunami to commemorate the tragedy from 26 December 2004

Monument of piled up boats akin to the aftermath 

Not long after lunch, we crossed Sungai Muda to get to Kompleks Bisikan Ikan. Also known as the Whispering Fish Market, the age old tradition of whispering to each other in a bid to strike a sale could not continue during Covid Pandemic. Strict Covid SOP's called for a switch to modern technologies. Instead of bargaining for the catch via whispers, Claudine noted phone screens and papers were passed on for viewing to close a sale !

As the market was the same way in and out, those who did not wish to go stayed behind at Dataran Tsunami where we had stopped earlier to enjoy watermelons. Observing the square by the seaside with a monument constructed of boats piled up high, diagonally opposite it, this area serves to commemorate the tragedy from 26 December 2004. Kuala Muda was worst hit from the Boxing Day tsunami, triggered from the deep sea earthquake, off the Indian Ocean. When the 6 meters waves came crashing to Malaysian shores, 10 villages in this area were destroyed. The waves also hit Penang, Perlis, Perak and Selangor. In Malaysia it took 68 lives. Worldwide, the waves took 227,898 lives.





Penang Island in the background

After regrouping, we rode on K642 for a short distance before turning off to the coastal road. The sea front was not pretty but merely a coastline fortified by boulders to prevent erosion. Over to our far left, Penang's skyline of concrete jungle floats in the middle of the sea.



We took this single lane tarmac till it meets the gravel path. On Google Map, the path rejoins K642 further down but we couldn't be too sure! Not wanting to waste time as we have a boat to catch, we returned to K642 earlier than intended and headed for Pulau Sayak instead.

Keldai Betina at the high vantage point, enroute to Pulau Sayak

View from the hill top

View from the hill top

View from the hill top

One of the stalls at the hill top 

Seafront view of Pulau Sayak

Seafront view of Pulau Sayak

Seafront view of Pulau Sayak


Getting to Pulau Sayak, we had to climb up a steep hill. A few Malay stalls, perched up at the hill slope, offers a great vantage point of the sea and Penang Island. Down the other side of the hill is the fishing village itself.






As we were running late, we had to forgo Pantai Teluk Nipah and head to Pantai Merdeka instead. It was crowded at the latter beach and tourists behaved freely as if they have achieved "Merdeka" from the Covid 19 pandemic.

Barriers placed to prevent motorcycles from crossing over

Barriers placed to prevent motorcycles from crossing over

There's a floating jetty to the left for times of high tide

But it was low tide when we boarded hence the boat only came up to the beach

Note the jetty in the background


Off we go!

Our boatman


He graciously helped us to take our photos


Smiling faces


Smiling faces


Pantai Merdeka


Pantai Merdeka


Tanjung Dawai


We avoided the crowd and headed to the far end of the beach to catch our boat for Tanjung Dawai. As it was a Sunday, tourists were abundant and as such the boat service was regular. We did not have to wait for our boats at all!

Both Tanjung Dawai and Pantai Merdeka are situated at the river mouth of Merbok River


It was easier to get off the boat at Tanjung Dawai as there was a proper Jetty. This being first and foremost a fishing village, tourists come here to hoard Ikan bilis, salted fish and keropok.








We hunted down a Chinese restaurant and since it was 4.30 pm, ordered a simple meal of fried noodles and nutmeg juice. The bill came up to RM80 plus!





Leaving Tanjung Dawai with a full stomach, we were in a great mood as Damai Park Resort, our stay for the night was only 14 km away. But little did we realized there were rolling hills waiting for us again! On top of that, the final 2 km was a repeat of yesterday's experience....another steep climb to the finish line!



Note :
Boat fare for passengers are RM3 one way
Boat fare for passengers including bike are RM7 one way
On off peak hours, boat will sail with a minimum of 5 pax. Hence boat will sail if you are willing to charter the whole boat at RM15
General enquiries, contact 0174485983


Photo credits :
Suzie
LC
Mindy
Amy

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Damai Park Resort, Bukit Patu Pahat, Merbok, Kedah

Reception

Suzie's room on the left

VT and Claudine's room

Next door is the rest of the team's room

Chalet Traditional with no air conditioning

The stream runs behind our rooms

Possibly the best chalets with a gateway that opens directly to the stream

Camping ground

Camping ground is brightly lit at night and close to amenities

The small watergate at the end of the resort. At night, the gates will be opened to lower the water level hence the bridge to the resort is above water  

A little bridge










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