Saturday 13 February 2021

When East Meets West (Dec 24 2020 - Jan 2 2021); Day 5 - Jeli to Pulau Banding

Jeli Hot Springs @9.22 am


Breakfast at Nasi Kerabu Kak Pah

Gunung Reng shrouded in mist @8.34 am

The 500 m walk down to the Hot Springs

Steaming Hot

Steaming Hot

Arriving at R & R Batu 13 @10.55 am

The "Elephant" dance !!!

It came checking on the commotion !

Finally at Rest Stop Titiwangsa @2.45 pm

View from Rest Stop Titiwangsa

Gerik Ecological Corridor, 9.4 km from Rest Stop Titiwangsa 

Viewing deck could be a safe haven for riders on the lookout for a campsite but we were told the washroom does not come with water supply!

KH with a broken chain @4.39 pm

The rattling was so intense Claudine's bottle cage gave way @ 5.05 pm

East Temenggor Lake Bridge @5.10 pm

East Temenggor Lake Bridge @5.10 pm

Waiting for our tea to be warmed up. The Resort had kept it for us even though we were late!

Uncle Meng, Simon and Cindy had abandoned their camping plans due to fear of wild animals. They had driven to Gerik instead where they met Mr Liew, who having suffered 2 punctures 20 km down from Rest Stop Titiwangsa, had hitched a ride with a kind Malay family.


This morning, Mr Liew was the first person to greet the group chat. Leaving the pack at 5.40 am, he bid everyone adieu, riding to Gerik all alone. His early departure was later frowned upon by many who are only too familiar with the dangers of the East West Highway. Not only is riding in the dark, on a road with narrow road shoulders dangerous but wild animals are often seen along the highway as well. 

After back to back tardiness over the past 2 days, everyone were all ready to roll, long before the official push off time. Even our "cheerleaders" were downstairs, eager to flag us off. 

Surprisingly, it was still pitch dark at 7 am and the air, chilly. Claudine sneezed a few times and wondered how LC was fairing with a wet head, having showered and washed her hair so early in the morning!

Riding out, we had a short panic attack when the recommended food stall was in complete darkness. After a brief discussion, we decided to ride on to the first available food stall or detour into Jeli town if need be, for the much needed fuel. 

Looking back, we had peeled our eyes on the dark road, slowing down at every structure with light, hoping to find a place to eat. Mind you, there were not many! 

Simon's meal of fish and kopi O only costs RM3.00 !!!

When hope was almost gone, we caught a mild whiff of burning wood accompanied by the smell of barbecued meat. The smell became stronger as we rode on and this soon led us to Nasi Kerabu Kak Pah! Funnily, we had only rode for 1.3 km but the fear of riding without food was so real!

Misty at 8.20 am

Keldai Betina and Keldai Jantan were the only bikes on full loads

After a good tuck in, we began our ride to Pulau Banding. By this time, the sun had broke the horizon but the air, still misty. 

15 km down the road, we made our first regrouping stop . Wearing a wide grin, Amy declared it's easier than Sedenak to Layang Layang, one of the few hilly routes in a relatively flat State of Johor! 

Pergau River

On the bridge across Pergau River

The unveiling of a monolith

The emerging monster!


It was still still misty at 8.20 am and when the last rider arrived, we moved on, only to stop 10 minutes later. Gunung Reng, a limestone hill shrouded in thick mist sent the shutter bugs clicking away! Located next to Sungai Pergau, the scenery was just majestic.

Not far ahead, we made yet another stop at Petron Batu Melintang. As KH needed to make an ATM cash withdrawal, it was also a good opportunity for us to empty our tanks. 

So far, the route had not been as deserted as we had thought. Small little settlements are spread out with Batu Melintang, the bigger village. 

While the route from Jeli had been a series of dragon backs, the actual climb began after Batu Melintang. The gradient was mild but the climb was continuous.



Regrouping at the entrance to Jeli Hotsprings, we were indecisive whether to venture down the hillslope or not. Scouting on her own, Claudine had not gone more than 50 m when she saw movements by a big rock. There were 2 adolescent wild boars digging for food! Excited, she got her handphone ready to take some shots but quick as lightning, they had scurried away! As wild boars usually move in litters and there were more noise in the jungle, she decided to return to the safety of her pack. 

Still eager to check out the hot springs, Claudine went on to enquire with a home cum restaurant nearby. The restaurant was closed but encouraged by clean laundry on the line and the sound of television coming from inside, she knocked on the door and was relieved when a young boy opened the door. Answering her query, he told her what she wanted to hear...the hot springs is only 500 m off the main road!

Mr Lim brazenly rolled down the steep slope

Power grids along the way

Elephant dung

Mr Lim was the first to arrive at the hot springs! While he brazenly rolled down the steep slope, the rests were more careful, preferring to push downhill. Our arrivals sent a family of campers off earlier than intended though they were friendly enough to explain the different temperatures of each pool.

The running stream on the left is cool mountain water while the hot spring water is collected in the man made pools

Hot girls by the Hot Springs

Hot girls by the Hot Springs

Steep slope back to the highway



Dipping by the pool, snacks were brought out. Those who bought curry puffs and kuehs from Kak Pah finished them off while some took out their own rations of biscuits. Claudine and VT though had a special treat of herbal tea laced with sour kanna, compliments from Amy.







Once back on track, we continued our ride to Pulau Banding. At R&R Batu 13, our next regrouping stop, we were dancing to Simon's music when we spotted an elephant right across the road. Possibly a young male, separated from the herd in search of a partner, the elephant was oblivious to our excitement until Claudine decided to follow its movements for more photos. Turning its head it trumpeted a loud, keep off warning!

Bridge @ 11.15 am

Arriving at pitstop

Snack time and SOS call

Our brows began to furrow at 11.30 pm ! We were still 20 km away from Rest Stop Titiwangsa and our water rations were getting low. With intermittent phone signals, it was hard to call for help. While Henry texted the group chat on a single bar signal, Claudine's call to LC was most frustrating. It was difficult to talk to her with screaming traffic and even more frustrating when the 2 girls claimed they didn't see the rest stop along the way. 

Riding on, we were separated further and further apart. KH with the lightest bike, of carbon built and zero load, was leading the pack with Kelvin and Simon. Usually, riding on her own with the 3 men in sight is Mindy while VT and Claudine were a constant, sometimes ahead but usually behind Mindy. Meanwhile, Henry who had lobbied with the front liners up to the hot springs had fallen back, usually ahead of the girls and Mr Lim.



Checking in with the group chat 45 minutes later, we found out our support car had overshot Pulau Banding and was closing in on Gerik! They had even bumped into Uncle Meng! 

Coming from Gerik, Uncle Meng was supposed to meet us at Rest Stop Titiwangsa. The gradient on his side was far worst thus he did not think twice about dumping his bags and camping gears in the support car. In fact, had there been enough space, he would have abandoned the ride altogether!

Dejected, we rode on knowing support is no longer forthcoming. R&R Tasik Pergau was as abandoned as Hentian Batu 13 and Hentian Damai was nothing more than a BIG LIE. Like a cruel joke, the signboards taunted us. First with a promise of refueling in X km distance, then 500 m, it was nothing more than a farm upon arrival! Damai meaning peace in Malay, we would have waged war instead had we not been so wasted!



At 1 pm, a very hungry and thirsty Kelvin texted the group chat. Riding in the lead and all alone, he was beginning to wonder if Rest Stop Titiwangsa is another mirage. His meter was clocking 52 km but there was still no sign of the place! 

Angels descended upon us!


Meanwhile, 5 km behind, the rest of the gang had stopped for regrouping as news of our rescue finally came through. Water supply finally arrived at 1.22 pm!

Terowong Semi @ 1.47 pm


Even with water, it was hard to ride on without proper nutrition. We had missed lunch and surviving on whatever snacks we had brought along was not sufficient. Claudine remembered stopping right after Terowong Semi, a tunnel of sorts just to take photos and stopping again 700 m later, just for chocolates! Every km was a hard labour!!!

Our spirits lifted when we saw Kelvin waiting by the side of the road, 2 km more to the Rest Stop. He could have finished the climb on his own but chose to complete it with the Team! Poor guy had to wait for more than 40 minutes!





Rest Stop Titiwangsa was like an oasis atop the mountain range. Standing at 1050m above sea level, it is the only water stop available between Batu Melintang / Jeli Hot Springs and Pulau Banding, a more than 60 km distance! We were so relieved to finally reach the ultimate point of the ride. 

Monopolized by a sole vendor, our lunch at 3 pm was limited to nasi lemak and fried chicken with most food sold out by then. Jasmine was so sweet to queue for everyone and our poor soul had to wait in line for soooo looooong!



Joining us slightly later was Uncle Meng who had managed to hitch a ride with a young man. Intrigued by Uncle Meng's recumbent, he had stopped to take his photos and thus unknowingly, roped in for the rescue!

After an extended lunch, we were all ready to get to Belum Rainforest Resort. Unfortunately, Kelvin had to abandon his ride altogether as he had a puncture to address. His rear tyre which deflated during the long wait to the peak needed a tube change for the descent. Earlier, he had only pumped up the tyres as it was a slow leak with only 2 km to the peak. As the puncture was at the rear wheel and difficult to change, he finally decided to just pack up!

The descent was exhilarating! Everyone were doing a minimum 40 kph and more!! Claudine's strava recorded a maximum speed of 48.2 kph even though she was braking all the time. Despite this, many more were flying downhill, overtaking her at break neck speed!!!

There were many potholes on the road and with overhung trees on a sunny day, it was difficult to tell if the shadows casted on the road were holes or merely an illusion! Claudine was suddenly very religious, repeatedly reciting prayers for the group's safety !

It was not a continuous downhill descent in all entirety. Close to 10 km to Pulau Banding, the drop vanishes, replaced by moments of huff and puff all over again! Boy, did we feel cheated!!!

East Temenggor Lake Bridge @5.10 pm

Traffic built up after the first bridge crossing on Pulau Banding. We had to tread carefully on the white line by the side of the road, indicating the edge of the carriageway. With zero road shoulders and a few inches drop to the dirt tracks, we were like circus performers on a tightrope!

Curiously, another car had pulled up by the side of the road with its distressed passenger emptying her lunch out on the road. This is possibly the 3rd victim of the East West Highway, based on Claudine's head count! 






We finally reached Belum Rainforest Resort at 5.30 pm. Still full from lunch, the resort continued to serve us our welcoming tea even though we had missed it at 4 pm. Later, we were whisked off to a private chalet for a cold dip before a sumptuous dinner awaits. 



That evening, we were in a celebratory mood. The worst is over and tomorrow is reserved purely for play and rejuvenation! We went........WILDDDDDD !!!

Photo credits :

Amy
Mindy
Cindy
Chooi
Henry
Simon
KH


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Belum Rainforest Resort



The man who made it all possible, En Ridzuan






1 comment:

  1. Fantastic events...a trip of a lifetime, awesome writeup... pictures telling it all

    ReplyDelete